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[Contents]
Iconoscope
Chapter
4 - Revolution and Escape
1917-1918
A
devastating international situation, coupled with a deteriorating
domestic economy, contributed to the universal feeling that something
ominous was coming. Zworykin sensed very quickly in early 1917 the
approach of what was eventually to be one of the most prophetic events
in history. In these next pages he describes the manifest uncertainty
of life during that extraordinary year.
When
I returned to Petrograd in January 1917, I found an entirely different
atmosphere than when I left it. The dislocation of civil life, already
evident before, had greatly increased. If before people worried only
about reverses at the front, now everyone seemed convinced the war was
lost. The frustration of just a few months ago was replaced by near
panic. Everyone was convinced that something drastic and dangerous was
inevitable, only no one knew what it was or when it would occur. The
prevailing attitude was that the sooner this inevitable unknown
happened, the better. It was expressed as "whatever happens will be
better than the present."
Thus
when the big event finally came, on February 17, hardly anybody noticed
since it came so gradually, so unpredictably, and because its coming
was taken for granted, it turned out not to be what everyone expected.
I may add that the result of this change surpassed both the fears and
expectations of everyone, including the people who actually engineered
it. The breaking point can be traced to the demonstration in front of
the Moscow railway station where a police lieutenant ordered the
Cossacks to disperse a demonstrating crowd. Instead, one of the
Cossacks killed the lieutenant.
From
that death, the revolution was irreversible. Workers from big factories
struck and began converging on the center of the city. Two elite
regiments from Petrograd arrested their officers and joined the
demonstration. The rest, of course, is well known. In a few days, Tsar
Nicholai [sic] II abdicated and all power went to the "Duma." It is
hard to describe these first days of the revolution. The city was in a
holiday mood. Everyone was in the street; nobody seemed to be doing
anything. Everyday life came to a standstill. The casualties in those
first days were very small and the newspapers were very jubilant,
labeling what was happening as the "great bloodless revolution." Still
it was very (p. 49) dangerous for officers to show themselves on the
streets, especially those who still wore officers’ epaulets.
Most of the officers removed them and began wearing red ribbons on
their sleeves or red rosettes in their lapels. Still the curiosity to
personally observe what was going on simply forced everybody into the
street. On the second day of the revolution, I found myself walking
through the corridors of the Duma. Since now everyone was supposed to
be equal, no passes were required for anything and there were no
restrictions on anybody. Thus, in spite of the fact that the Duma now
was the center of government, anybody could walk through Tavrida Palace, where the Duma was
assembled, and even enter rooms where government meetings were in
progress.
While walking through the Tavrida Palace, I met a
friend of my father, Professor [Aleksandr I.] Guchkov,
a member of the Duma and the new provisional government. He asked me if
I were still in the Signal corps since they needed somebody to
immediately organize radio communications directly from the Tavrida
Palace, particularly to the Island of Kronstadt, situated in the mouth
of the Neva River, where there was great danger that the commander of
the fortress might be executed by the sailors. Since after my return
from [left blank: probably Turgay] I spent most of my time at
the Russian Marconi factory, I told him we could use radio equipment
from there, which I knew was ready for shipment to the front. I asked
him to get me the proper official documents, which he did, and then I
rushed to the factory which was located on another side of the city.
That day the streetcars were not running and if I went by foot, it
would probably have taken me several hours. There were many automobiles
standing in front of the palace, with military chauffeurs. I did not
have much success trying to requisition one until I was accosted by a
chauffeur whose face looked familiar and I recognized him as one of the
mechanics, named Loushin, who had been with me on the expedition. I
told him of my predicament, and since in these days the authority of a
private was much higher that of a general, he soon procured a
motorcycle with a sidecar which from then on became my personal
transportation for several months. He took me to the factory where Dr. [S. M.] Aisenstein, on the strength of
the personal letter from the minister, agreed to release the equipment.
Now our problem was how to deliver the equipment, which was mounted in
the truck, to the palace and how to find a crew to operate it. Here
again, Loushin had a solution. He suggested going to the
Officers’ Communication School and calling for volunteers.
We
found the school in turmoil. A big meeting was in progress. For me,
being an officer, to interrupt a meeting was impossible, but it was
different for Loushin. Without asking permission, he jumped on the
roster and addressed the audience composed entirely of soldiers,
describing the imperative necessity of immediately establishing radio
communication at the Tavrida Palace. He (p. 50) called for volunteers.
The response was so tremendous that we had difficulty in selecting the
most qualified. Back we went to the Marconi factory, this time with two
big trucks filled with volunteers; picked up the radio truck, and
returned to the Tavrida Palace.
By
the end of the day the radio station was set in the garden of the
palace and soon communication was established with Kronstadt. I
immediately contacted the minister and reported that the station was
ready for operation and communication began. The first two days I was
stationed day and night at the palace, organizing the operation of the
station, but at the end of the third day after delivering some of the
dispatches to the minister’s office, I decided to explore the
rest of the building. Walking through the corridors, I noticed a big
sign—"Radio Communication," and I found a large room filled
with desks, each one occupied by either an officer or a soldier, and
lots of girls, presumably secretaries. Everyone seemed very busy trying
to look important. Sitting at the biggest desk was a captain in the
Signal Corps uniform, so I asked him what they were using for
communications. He answered that everything was in the preparation
stage only; they hoped to presently use the big station located in the
outskirts of Petrograd, but as of now it was not available. He was
astonished to hear there was a radio station operating already in the
palace gardens and was very indignant that nobody had reported to him.
And just who was I anyhow? After explaining to him what I had done, on
the direct request of the minister, and where the equipment had come
from, he became most jubilant and appointed me as some sort of third
secretary to him.
This
new appointment consisted essentially of sitting behind the desk and
pretending to be busy. New commanders at the station, and by now there
were several of them, did not even let me in for a visit. Very soon
after consulting with Colonel [Ilya] Mouromtseff who was still the head
of the Communication School, I was reappointed to a permanent job at
the Russian Marconi Factory which suited me very much. However, the
work at the factory also began to disintegrate. Regardless of where you
went, to the shop, to the drafting room, or to the laboratory, all you
would find were continuous meetings, endless resolutions, and very
little work.
The
city never came back to normal life. The demonstrations and parades
continued on one pretext or another, and the food supply began to get
worse every day. There were continuous lines in front of bakeries and
food stores. The only milk available was from private farmers, mostly
from Finland. If you could find one there was always a near riot among
those anxious to buy his milk.
On
practically every corner was an orator, mostly returned soldiers from
the front, calling for new freedom and "down with everything." Around
the villa of a famous ballerina, there was (p. 51) always a tremendous
crowd hoping to hear and see Lenin who lived there and spoke quite
often. Meanwhile the disintegration of the front continued. Frantic
efforts by the remaining organized troops failed to stop the Germans
who were now advancing on Petrograd. The provisional government tried
to organize new troops, mostly from officers and volunteers to protect
the Capital.
We
were living among wild rumors, not knowing what exactly was going on
because even the newspaper stories were untrustworthy. One day I
received a notice to report immediately to the revolutionary tribunal.
This was a very frightening summons since, according to rumors,
officers seldom returned home from such summonses, either being sent to
prison or even executed for no other reason than being a career officer
or on the complaint of a former subordinate.
When
I came to the indicated address of the tribunal, which was in the
railroad station, I was brought to a room full of people, mostly
soldiers. Behind a long table covered with a red cloth, sat the
judges—two soldiers and one civilian. The presiding judge
asked my name and I gave him the summons. He searched among the papers
in front of him and finally said that I was accused by my former
orderly Tovarisch Konstantine of inhuman treatment,
when he was at my mercy. It sounded completely incredible because
Konstantine, fat and lazy, was probably the most pampered orderly I had
ever encountered. I spoiled him at the very start and he had taken full
advantage of this. He disappeared soon after the revolution, coming
only occasionally to tell me fantastic rumors and receive an allowance
which I started to pay him from the beginning of his service and which
I continued, even after he had stopped working for me.
Completely bewildered, I asked the judge, who was
glaring accusingly at me, what kind of mistreatment I was accused of,
since I could not recall ever harming Konstantine. At this, the judge
called the plaintiff. Konstantine appeared very confused and red in the
face, mumbling something about officers always mistreating poor
orderlies. One of the judges stopped him and told him to tell exactly
how he was abused. Here Konstantine told his incredible story. He told
of the many hours I had forced him to speak all kinds of nonsense
"through the hole in the box" and that I did it to humiliate him. He
obviously was referring to our experiments with the wireless telephone.
I looked at the judges and found by their menacing expressions that in
spite of the absurdity of his accusation, they believed him. As I tried
to explain, feeling at the same time how futile it was, one of the
spectators, with the permission of the judge, asked me if he understood
correctly that I was working with new radio-telephone. When I confirmed
this, he delivered a veritable (p. 52) oration, partly to the judges,
partly to the rest of the public, present in the room. He accused
Konstantine of gross ignorance and told him that he should have been
proud to help me in any work instead of accusing me of mistreatment.
His speech so relieved the accusatory atmosphere that the judges began
whispering among themselves. The presiding judge then announced that
the case was dismissed and told me that I could go home since the
accusation was not proved. He then turned to Konstantine and
said—"Get out and don’t show your face here
again." The next week Konstantine again appeared at my
apartment for his monthly allowance and I gave it to him.
At
that time I met again an officer that I knew before, who suggested that
I enlist in a new contingent he was forming with large new motorized
artillery pieces. He expected to be sent very soon to the front and he
badly needed an engineer familiar with trucks, motor generators, and
radios. He persuaded me to join him so I moved to the outskirts of
Petrograd for my new job.
In
Petrograd, away from the chaos of Moscow, Zworykin was assigned to a
special-purpose heavy artillery unit. This unit (T.A.O.N.) was
completely motorized and had new six-inch heavy guns. He was
responsible for the outfit’s mechanical affairs in addition
to the training of chauffeurs, mechanics, and radio operators. Since,
like himself, all of the officers and men were volunteers, the unit was
free of the corrosive atmosphere of hatred and suspicion that permeated
many of the regular Army units. He remembers the atmosphere and
relationships in this unit as most congenial—a refreshing
change from his previous experiences.
Many
of my duties were new to me so I had a lot to learn, not only about the
complicated gun mechanisms but also about tractors, trucks, and light
automobiles which were either of American or French manufacture. Most
of my time was occupied by the automotive equipment and the
training of drivers. Fortunately, I succeeded in having Loushin
transferred with me, and although he had been a motorcycle driver, he
quickly became a very good chauffeur and helped me to train the rest of
the crew. Still we had a lot of trouble with accidents, equipment
breakdown, and even injuries to the personnel. One of the (p. 53)
accidents almost proved fatal to both Loushin and myself. Our unit
received a new, light, French-made open automobile (Renault) and
Loushin and I went to the railroad depot to get it and drive it back to
our outfit. It arrived with several spare tires and boxes containing
additional parts and tools. On our trip home, with Loushin driving, we
ran into heavy traffic (horse-drawn carts) so when we saw a break in
front of us, Loushin drove into it in order to bypass a stalled column.
However, we soon discovered that trucks were stopped at the crossing of
a suburban steam railroad and as we had almost reached the track, we
saw to our horror a locomotive coming full speed toward us. Loushin
quickly stopped the car and tried to reverse it but in the excitement
forgot that the Renault had a different gear shift than the other cars
we had in our outfit. Instead of reversing it, he sent the car forward.
I
will never forget the next moment; I have since seen it many times in
my dreams. The impact of the collision threw the car in the gutter
[and] propelled both of us high into the air. The spare tires went
flying with us and created a fantastic picture of slow motion as they
rotated around us in free flight. Remarkably, when I landed in a field
quite a distance from the place of collision, I found that with the
exception of a wide open cut of one of my military boots and a scratch
on my leg, I was unhurt. Some of the cart drivers rushed to help me,
but when we started to look for Loushin, we could not find him. Our
first impression was that he was covered by the wrecked car and with
great apprehension lifted it only to find no one
was underneath. Then we saw someone approaching us from the direction
of the river, dragging someone with them. It was Loushin, completely
wet, and in bad nervous shock. The soldiers said that they had fished
him out of the river where he was evidently attempting to drown
himself. I found that he also was completely unhurt, but had a strong
impulse, after landing in the field, to run and before he realized it,
he was in water and someone was dragging him out.
The
next few days were frantic for both of us. The car was a sad sight,
with crumpled fenders and a dented body, but the chassis and motor were
intact and after straightening the fenders and changing two broken
tires, we were able to start it up again. To return to our unit with a
new car in such a condition was a disgrace and since the Marconi
factory was not too far from the accident, we drove there. A closer
inspection revealed that most of the damage was to the body. I appealed
my predicament to Dr. Aisenstein and he gracefully let us use the shop
and factory tools for repair. Loushin got additional help from some
mechanics he knew and in three days the car was completely repaired and
repainted so that when we finally delivered it to the battery, hardly
anyone noticed the damage. I have mentioned only of one many accidents
we had in the training of the chauffeurs out of raw recruits. (p. 54)
One
of the most troublesome characteristics of untrained chauffeurs was
their curiosity towards complicated mechanisms and their tendency to
take them apart at the slightest opportunity. Since it was forbidden to
disassemble such parts as carburetors or ignitions, they often did it
away from the base, on the pretext that the machine was stalled. Quite
often I would receive either a telephone call or a messenger with
information that a car was broken down twenty or thirty miles away and
needed help. On arrival I would often fund a disassembled carburetor
with some parts spread out on a soldier’s overcoat and the
parts already lost, broken or reversed. So the machine had to be towed
back for repair. Additional trouble came from the gasoline, which was
often full of lint from the filling hoses. Tires were also unreliable
and seldom lasted more than one or two thousand miles.
We
were fortunate in having a very competent and energetic commander.
Since the time set aside for organization and training was very short,
he forced all of us to work close to twelve hours a day. He took us on
practice marches, and later started accustoming us to simulated combat
conditions. To make us give accurate information concerning shell
landings, he would fire live ammunition over the heads of the advance
observation post, and after receiving the distance of overshot, he
would [fire] half this distance. Therefore the closeness of second
shell bursts depended on how accurate our information was. The next
shell would land behind the post to discourage estimations of too large
an overshot. After a few scares from close bursts, we became very
accurate in our ranging. Furthermore, at first we were reluctant to dig
our observation trenches too deep, but a few close shells rendered all
of us expert, swift and energetic diggers. Fortunately, we had no
casualties during these practices.
Finally,
all the unit preparations were completed, most of the equipment was
obtained, and we received orders to proceed south. We did not get very
far. We stopped near Kiev because the front had disintegrated. Germans
occupied Ukraine and installed Getman [or
hetman, "leader" Pavlo Skoropadsky] in Kiev. Our unit found itself in a
very complicated situation. We stayed on the opposite bank from Kiev,
on the River Dnieper, in the village of Brovary. Across the river from
us were the Ukrainian troops of Getman and Germans. On one side were
Cossacks who were independent and did not accept orders from Moscow,
and on another side were detachments of partly demobilized troops,
which did not accept any authority at all. They were leaning toward the
Bolsheviks, although officially power was still in the hands of the
Duma and preparation were being made for the election of the
Parliament. Every day we were visited by all kinds of political
propagandists who held meetings and tried to influence us, each in
different direction. Nobody knew anything for certain so we just stayed
there and awaited (p. 55) new orders, but no one arrived. To augment my
personal difficulties, my wife arrived from Petrograd since life there
began to be very difficult. I succeeded in finding a room for her, but
intended to move her on to Kiev later.
Meantime
the general situation grew more and more obscure and we began to have
frequent incidents between members of the battery and demobilized
soldiers returning home and anxious to appropriate anything movable.
The battery had to entrench itself and our commander put us on military
alert.
One
day an invitation came to attend a meeting of delegates of different
army units stationed in surrounding territory. One
noncommissioned officer and I were elected to represent the
battery. The meeting was very large, noisy, and fruitless. I doubt that
at this time if it was possible to arrive at any majority decision. The
army was divided by a multitude of different political
creeds—from monarchists to communists—and although
most of the parties agreed to support the election, communists had
already launched their slogan "all power to soviets." The meeting
changed nothing so we started home by train. The station was more than
usually crowded, and in our attempt to squeeze into the car, I was
separated from my companion. When the train crossed the river bridge it
was stopped at a small station and surrounded by a large mob of
demobilized soldiers, some of whom tried to board it. When they saw the
many officers who were returning from the meeting, they wanted to
remove and disarm them. Many fights started and there was some
shooting. Railroad officials, in an effort to stop the riot, started
the train, but some of the more militant members of the crowd had
already for on board and began moving from car to car disarming and
abusing officers. I was riding in the middle of a car, near a window
and when the militant began to close in on me, I jumped through the
window and rolled down a slope, landing in the soft wet brush. It was
already getting dark so the few shots they fired at me from the windows
fortunately missed. Although I was a little shaken, I was not hurt. I
walked to our unit which was about five miles away.
This
situation changed suddenly and radically when the unit members were
awakened one night by the sounds of shooting to find themselves
surrounded by an armed regiment of Ukrainian soldiers. They surrendered
themselves and their weapons without resistance on the condition that
the (p. 56) Ukrainians (who actually demobilized them since they were on
Ukrainian territory) allowed them to keep two
of their trucks to deliver men and baggage to the railroad station.
Thus, out of uniform, Zworykin went to Kiev where he joined his wife.
Life
in Kiev was far from peaceful. There were rumors that the front was
retreating and the Germans were going to evacuate the city. We had to
decide what we would do next. My wife wanted to be evacuated with the
Germans, which was possible, but I was against it and wanted to return
to Petrograd. This led to another separation, this time we thought,
because of our many problems, the final one. My wife left for Berlin
with a family whom we knew before, and I succeeded getting passage on
one of the rare trains going to Moscow. When I arrived there after a
very hard trip, I found the city calm and soon located my sister Maria,
who was still working in a hospital. From her I learned that my Father
had been dead almost a month. This was a great shock to me and I
departed as soon as I could for Murom.
The
situation in Murom was much worse than in the big cities, which was
probably typical for most of the country at this time. The governing
power in Murom had passed abruptly from old police and local councils
to the local soviets, consisting mostly of workers from local factories
and demobilized soldiers. This not only made the life of the more
wealthy people completely miserable but also disrupted the life of the
whole city.
For
a time, most of the citizens did not realize what had happened. They
considered the change temporary and expected that everything would
return to its old accustomed pattern. The story of what happened to one
family, soon after the Bolsheviks seized power, will serve as an
illustration. The head of this family was a successful merchant,
philanthropist, and one-time the mayor of Murom. He died shortly before
the Revolution and left a large family. Soon after his death, his
eldest son got drunk and created a disturbance in the house. When such
things happened before, his mother, if she could not handle the
situation personally, used to call the chief of police. This gentleman
would arrive in full uniform and medals, have a few drinks with the
son, then gently suggest that he peacefully go to bed. Not realizing
that anything had changed from the old times except the names, she
called the new commissar of police to come and talk with her son. When
the commissar arrived and the son not only refused to obey his orders
to go with him but started to argue (p. 57) [line illegible; possibly with
him, the commissar shot him dead. Soon after their home was]
was confiscated and the family was dispersed. This situation had a
personal aspect to me, since one of the daughters in the family was my
first romance. The girl I met under such unusual circumstances during
the disastrous demonstration in Murom.
Our
house had already been requisitioned for a Museum of Natural Sciences,
but my Mother and my oldest widowed sister were permitted to use,
temporarily, a couple of rooms. I tried my best to persuade them to
move to Moscow where they be less conspicuous, but they would not leave
their home. This proved to be a fatal mistake. I learned what happened
to them only many years later. I also learned that my aunt Maria Solin
was murdered in her house by the lover of the girl she adopted. The
motive evidently was robbery since she had a large collection of Holy
Icons that were incrusted with precious stones. Our other relatives
also suffered. The father of my cousin Ivan, who it was said cared as
much about his race horses as he did his children, shot himself when
his horses were requisitioned.
I
located my school friend Vassili and found him an invalid, severely
crippled during the war. He had married just before the mobilization
and now was supported by his wife. He told me about some of our other
classmates, many either killed or scattered all over the country. One
had become very prominent and occupied an important post in Moscow.
When
I returned to Moscow, I discovered that the Russian Marconi factory had
been evacuated from Petrograd and was now in Moscow. I reported to work
and was gladly received by Dr. Aisenstein, but the work in the factory
was completely disrupted. Most of the equipment had not arrived yet;
and what was there had not yet been installed. We spent most of our
time at the railroad yard, hunting for missing machinery or in long
lines waiting for food and other necessities.
In
October the provisional government failed, and Bolsheviks seized power
[1917]. This did not improve our situation and, as a matter of fact,
brought work at the factory to a complete standstill. The new
government started moving its offices to Moscow, completely overloading
the railroad between Petrograd and Moscow, thereby making the transfer
of factory equipment increasingly difficult. Even the local communist
cell, which was now in charge of the factory, was powerless to help
locate the necessary equipment. In desperation one day, Dr. Aisenstein
asked me to help a laboratory representative locate some important
cases containing instruments and get the proper papers so they could be
released from the railroad. In order to get a pass for anything, one
first had to get a pass to enter the office where such passes were
issued. My companion was an old mechanic (p. 58) from the laboratory, a
long-time communist, and a very decent fellow. He was upset and ashamed
by the disorder we found in the offices. Since he could not find any
information about passes, I suggested that he use his party card. This
worked like magic. All he had to do now was to flash his card and nod.
In my direction and say "he is with me" and we were able to pass
through all the doors that had previously been closed to us.
However,
that was only the beginning. Nobody could tell us who the proper person
was that could help us. Finally we located a desk where there was a
long line of people with problems similar to ours. Some were protesting
the long delay, and one in the line, who started a conversation with my
companion, told him that he had already waited for more than an hour.
Just as he reached the desk, the official got up and left and nobody
seemed to know when he would be back. "All he has to do is to put a
rubber stamp on my paper," he said. I meekly suggested to him that if
only a stamp was necessary and the stamp was here on the desk, then why
not use it himself? That aroused some interest but nobody made a move.
So three of us left the line and approached the desk. I looked at the
papers for the equipment we had brought with us and found that they
were in order. All that was needed was an official stamp on the proper
place indicated on the paper. It was too tempting to resist, so I
affixed the stamp. The third fellow grumbled but followed my example.
This created an uproar on the line but he passed the stamp to the next
one and we quietly departed. This was still not the end. We needed a
number registering the paper in the book of the office where it was
issued. For this, we were sent to another room and found the proper
desk with a young girl sitting behind it. She was munching on a piece
of bread, and said she was busy and refused to register our paper.
After some arguments she admitted that she was new, and was only
sitting in since the girl responsible for this had gone and might not
return all day. So we volunteered to teach her how to complete the
registration. My companion showed her his party card and, after
registering our papers in the official ledger, we completed all the
necessary requirements. By the end of the day, we received our box of
instruments.
Zworykin
now made his most difficult decision—to leave Russia. He was
restless; sick of war, chaos, and death; and wanted only a place where
he could do research in a laboratory. A Civil War was
brewing—something he had no taste for. In addition, the new
government continued strict orders for all former officers to report
for enrollment into the Red Army. He describes his feelings and
eventual departure in the next pages. (p. 59)
It
is hard to describe the complex and contradictory reasons that brought
me to this decision, but I think they were not much different from the
general feeling of many individuals with my background. The feeling in
the country toward the new regime was widely divided. The most
homogeneous and organized supporters of the communist government were
factory workers, probably because of the socialistic pronouncements by
past generations of intellectuals, with which I was so well acquainted
during my student years. In direct opposition to them were the career
army officers and most of the wealthy class, particularly those who
lost their lands and industries. Intellectuals, who were in the
minority, were divided into dozens of different political creeds,
ranging from completely for to completely against the new regime.
The
peasants were a bewildered mass; on one hand they were pleased by the
seizure of the landowners’ property and gloated over the loot
they got from their pillaged mansions, but were apprehensive by the
uncertainty as to whom this land belonged—to them or to the
government. The wealthier peasants, so-called "Kulaks" who had
already accumulated some land which they augmented during the
revolution, were neutral for the time being, but eventually swung to
the right and in the end were eliminated.
The
large mass of the Russian population, the main reservoir for recruits
on both sides of the conflict, was more or less neutral and, as later
events proved, oscillated politically according to which side was
stronger at that particular moment. Ironically, one of the most
decisive factors in cementing the allegiance of the mass of the
population, in my opinion, was the foreign intervention. The effort of
the Allies to keep Russia at war with Germany actually aroused the
masses’ dormant nationalism and unintentionally strengthened
the position of the communist government.
Of
course all of this was not so clear to me at that time, but its profile
was dimly foreseeable and unquestionably influenced my decision to
leave the country. Since I wanted to work in a laboratory where I could
develop the many ideas I had, I was willing to go to any country where
I could find such a facility. America seemed to me to be such a country.
To
leave Russia was very difficult, since strict precautions to prevent
this were in effect on all the borders. The best way to leave was to
obtain the proper identification papers and some sort of official
orders to go abroad or at least somewhere near the border. Our radio
factory was under military orders, and therefore it was impossible that
an engineer could be sent abroad officially. However, I (p. 60) had
friends in a large cooperative organization that had offices in America
and in the Siberian city of Omsk. I succeeded in obtaining from them an
order to go to Omsk on an official mission. Most of the officials at
that time who checked identification papers were half literate, so the
most important items in any paper were an impressive letterhead and a
large seal. So soon as I had secured those, I began my preparations to
leave.
Although
I tried to arrange my departure in as legal a manner as possible, under
the circumstances, still the life at that time was full of surprises
and one had to be prepared for all kinds of emergencies. Your papers
had to be both current and always with you in case you were stopped on
the street or your apartment was searched. If whoever questioned you
was not satisfied, even though you were absolutely innocent of any
political activity, you could be taken to jail, from which it was very
difficult, if not impossible, to be extricated. In spite of all these
precautions my departure occurred very dramatically and abruptly.
One
day while I was walking home from the laboratory, a car stopped by me
and I recognized the driver as my friend Loushin. I invited him up to
my apartment, but he motioned for me to enter the car. As he sped away
in the opposite direction, he related how he had tried to find me at
the laboratory but had just missed me. He was now working as a military
police driver and by accident found out that there were orders out to
search my apartment and to arrest me because they found out that I was
a former officer who had not registered. Since it was very dangerous to
go to any place where I was known, Loushin took me to the railroad
station where I telephoned my apartment. Someone was already there. I
had to leave Moscow immediately. I bought a ticket to Nijni [Nizhni
Novgorod] (now Gorki) where my family once had a steamship office that
was now nationalized, but still retained our name. After reaching
Gorki, I found most of the former employees were still there, although
in reversed positions; one of the junior clerks was now in charge of
the office and I went to see him. Fortunately, we had been friendly in
old times and had even hunted together. He obtained a ticket for me on
the steamer to the city of Perm (now Molotov) on the Kama River and
gave me money in exchange for some jewelry I brought from home.
The
boat was reasonably clean and comfortable, with plenty of food, so I
had a very restful and pleasant week of travel. In general, the farther
we moved from Moscow, the more peaceful the country became. However,
(p. 61) when I arrived in Perm I learned that the railroad to Omsk was
not running because of fighting and it was impossible to go farther. I
met several engineers I knew before who reinforced the fact that the
situation on the railroad was very chaotic. Former Czech prisoners from
the Austrian army, who volunteered and formed a special Czech division, refused to
disarm themselves as ordered by the new government. They occupied the
city of Kasan on the Volga River and were fighting their way along the
Trans-Siberian Railroad (which went on to Vladivostok on the Pacific
coast) in order to return to their country, and this action of course
disrupted the railroad communication.
This
introduced a completely new and unpredicted element into an already
complex situation. The Czechs seized the national gold bullion, stored
in Kasan, reported to be worth half a billion dollars. This action of
course raised the hopes of the anti-communists who expected to inherit
this gold. Eventually, only part of the gold reached Vladivostok, and
that part was confiscated by the British.
I
discovered that trains were still operating to the north and was
advised to try my luck through the northern mining region and from
there to go by boat to Omsk. I decided to take this suggestion.
Without
much difficulty I reached, by train, a large mining region by the name
of "Nadejdinski Mines" [Nadezhdinsk, now Serov] and on the advice of
the conductor, I planned to spend the night on the train because it was
the end of the line. During the night, the train was boarded by a
military patrol, who demanded to see my papers. Although my papers were
in order and I still was traveling according to orders of the
cooperative via Omsk, having been diverted by the Czech situation, they
were not satisfied and decided to report me to the main office. This of
course was very alarming since in this part of the country local
officials were very independent. To my surprise, the office answered to
bring me to the guest house where a room was ready for me. In spite of
my protests that this must be some mistake, since I did not expect to
stay and was just passing on to Omsk, I was taken very politely but
firmly to the guest house where not only a room was ready but in spite
of the late hour, I was treated with a good dinner. I was very alarmed
with such an unexpected reception but since there was nothing I could
do until morning, I had a good sleep.
In
the morning (p. 62) there was a knock on the door and the hostess
brought me breakfast, informing me that it was late and that a
reception committee had already been waiting for me for quite a long
time. I was now certain that someone had made a mistake and that the
reception committee had taken me for somebody else. I did not have the
slightest desire to be an imposter, besides it was very dangerous, so I
decided to tell them frankly about their mistake. When I entered the
reception room, I found half a dozen people who greeted me and began
introducing themselves. At first I tried to convince them that they had
mistaken me for someone else, but eventually I gave up when they
continued to insist that as an engineer from the Center, I should still
be interested in inspecting their plant. Outflanked, I finally agreed.
It
took me several days to inspect this big establishment. Gradually, it
became clear to me that the new management was anxious to impress
Moscow that the work was progressing satisfactorily so they could get
confirmation of their authority and receive money for current expenses.
Even to my inexperienced judgment this was only partially true, since
some of the blast furnaces were stopped without gradual cooling and
therefore completely ruined. and some of the shops
were not operating for one reason or another. The management was
expecting a commission from Moscow to inspect actual working conditions
in the Ural industries so a priority could be assigned to funds and
materials; they mistook me for such. With some argument I agreed to
confirm, by signature, their statement of plant working conditions,
after they agreed to state correctly the exact number of operating
blast furnaces and shops. This confirmation was to be sent by special
messenger to Moscow. At the same time, I asked them to help me get to
Omsk. They suggested I return by the same railroad and change trains at
Ekaterinburg (now Sverdlovsk).
This
proved to be very difficult. At the exchange station I found that
trains to Ekaterinburg were very rare, and seats were assigned by local
soviets who promptly refused to honor my traveling orders. So I had no
other choice but to hang around the station waiting to find a place on
one of the trains. Among one of the newly arrived passengers on a train
from Moscow, I saw an engineer whom I had known before in the
Institute. He told me that he was a member of the group sent from the
government to investigate conditions in the Ural industries. It was
lucky that I left there when I did, otherwise it would have (p. 63)
been very unpleasant for me in spite of my emphatic denials of not
being a part of this investigation commission. Still our chance meeting
helped me to get a seat on the train vacated by my friend and that was
how I finally reached Ekaterinburg.
I
found the city on military alert because the Czechs were moving toward
it along the railroad. The military patrol at the station was not
satisfied with my papers and told me to remain in the car until they
sent someone else to check on them further. This was dangerous so I
left the car as soon as they had gone. I went to the station and got a
horse taxi to take me into town. But at the gates we were stopped by
another patrol and when they found that my papers did not have a
release stamp, they sent me back to the station under guard, to the
same fellow who told me to remain in the railroad car. With a convoy, I
was sent to town to a hotel that had been turned into a prison where
all persons suspected being either Czech partisans or former officers
were being detained. Here I found many different people: some panicky,
some indignant at the disruption of their travel and shouting for
immediate release, and ominously, some already resigned to their doom.
Several
days after my arrest, we heard from the guards that Tsar Nicholai II
who was under arrest in the same city but in a different house, was
shot with all his family. This news of course caused panic among the
prisoners. We knew before that periodically some individuals and even
groups were taken out of our hotel prison and were not returned. After
the tsar’s execution, we believed that most of them were
shot. Soon after, I was called for interrogation. Since I was traveling
in a military overcoat, without shoulder straps but with the
engineering badge on it, the accusation naturally was that I was a
Tsarist officer trying to escape over to the counter-revolutionary
forces. This I denied, insisting that I was mobilized during the war,
had the lowest commissioned rank, was demobilized by the Ukrainians,
and was now being sent by the cooperative to Omsk as a radio
specialist. I was able to support all of this by proper documents.
This
however did not convince my interrogator, who tried to trick me with
all kinds of intricate questions, including some about radio. Since he
was a dentist before the revolution I was able to hold an upper hand on
his technical questions. Thus I was sent back to the prison to await
Moscow’s verification of my credentials. Although this was a
momentary gain, my troubles were not solved because communication with
Moscow was very slow and uncertain, and furthermore the status of the
cooperative with the new regime was quite precarious. (p. 64)
The
atmosphere in the prison was panicky and full of rumors, some brought
by new arrivals and others invented by the inmates themselves. Most
speculation concerned the intention and location of the Czech troops.
Down the street we could hear sporadic shooting, and someone advocated
overpowering the guard and escaping. When in the next few days, the
food situation deteriorated to the point where we were literally
starving we began to prepare to break out. Someone found out that the
Czechs were already in town, and our guards began to disappear. In no
time, the doors were broken open and all the inmates rushed out into
the streets.
At
first, everyone tried to get as far away as possible from the
hotel-prison, but then someone heard that the Czechs wanted us to go to
the monastery where we would be taken care of. I personally did not
like the idea of possibly being locked up again, so I separated from
the group. It was a great feeling to be free again, even though I had
lost all my money and my suitcase containing everything I had. The city
was in turmoil. There was some shooting; some people tried to escape
from the city and others were jubilant at the arrival of the Czechs.
Finally,
after some wandering, I ran into a Czech patrol who searched me but
were satisfied when I told them that I had just come from the political
prison. They ordered me to show them around the city. Our
communication was difficult since the Czech language is quite
different from Russian, but when one of them began speaking German, the
situation improved. When the patrol returned to their unit, they took
me with them and fed me. One of the sergeants, who spoke German, told
me that before the war he had worked as a mechanic at the Skoda Works.
I happened to know an engineer who studied at the Institute with me and
after graduation went to work at Skoda. The sergeant said he had heard
about him. This established some sort of friendly contact and under his
protection, I was permitted to go with their train to Omsk, where at
that time power was in the hands of the provisional Siberian government
who opposed the communists, having an agreement with the Czechs
permitting them to proceed unmolested to Vladivostok.
As
soon as we arrived in Omsk, I located the office of the cooperative
from which I had traveling orders and was greeted very warmly. They
agreed that they needed (p. 65) more engineering information from
America and were willing to help me to get there, but Omsk was cut off
on all sides, except the north, by various fighting groups and I had to
wait until the situation improved. They also told me that they were
visited by a professor of geology, I. [Innokenty P.] Tolmachoff from
Petrograd, who also was trying to go abroad on some scientific
assignment. I found Professor Tolmachoff, who said that he hoped to
leave the country via the northern route—by the rivers
Irtysh, Ob, and the Arctic Ocean. The professor had many friends in
both the government and the cooperative who were helping him to
organize his expedition, and if I was willing to join him, he said he
would be glad to have me. So I found myself a member of the Arctic
expedition. We had a small river boat that belonged to the cooperative
which would take us to Obdorsk (now Solehard [Salekhard])
on the mouth of the River Ob. From there, we hoped to find
transportation help from local officials. On the way we promised to
distribute various supplies from the cooperative to some settlements on
the rivers.
I
was also told that Omsk needed radio communications and although the
French government had promised to send equipment and a specialist to
operate it, nothing had arrived. Thus, as a radio expert, I was
commissioned by the government to approach the Russian Embassy
in Copenhagen and London and if necessary, in America, in order to
purchase the appropriate radio equipment and bring it to Omsk. So at
the end of July 1918, our boat departed from Omsk to the Arctic Ocean.
I found a very congenial crowd on this boat. Professor Tolmachoff and I
became very good friends and remained so for many years in America.
Also with us, besides the crew and some members of the cooperative, was
an expert for the conservation of fish, who was sent to study the types
of fish available in the rivers for commercial purposes. So, via his
studies, we continuously had a supply of fresh fish during the whole of
our journey.
This
trip gave me a unique opportunity to see this part of the country. The
Ob is one of the largest rivers in the world. It starts in the Altai
Mountains, crosses the whole Siberian plain, and after 3000 miles
empties into the Arctic Ocean. At the time of our travel, with the
exception of a few cities, the area surrounding the river was sparsely
populated and the shores were covered with an almost impenetrable
taiga. Communication in summer was mostly by boat, and in winter by
horse and sleigh. Our boat traveled quite leisurely, stopping at the
small (p. 66) settlements.
On
these stops we had the opportunity to meet and talk with the
population. In many of the villages, they had heard vaguely about the
revolution but, in some, were completely ignorant of what was going on.
This part of the country was conquered at the end of the sixteenth
century by Cossacks under Ermak, and for
quite a long time was used by the government as a place for political
and criminal exiles. Various native tribes had partly assimilated with
Russian settlers, but most had retained their ethnic entity.
One
of our most interesting stops was at the town of Beresovo, at the
northern end of the River Ob. Here, on the top of a hill, we saw the
remains of an old Schukchi settlement which
according to Professor Tolmachoff dated to the pre-Ermak conquest of
Siberia. We collected some pottery in various stages of preservation.
We also saw a group of male natives with [a] shaman, dancing over
bottles of vodka.
After
a month of travel down the River Ob which in its lower stretches is
several miles wide with very few settlements, we arrived at Obdorsk
(Salekhard). Here we spent several days making arrangements for
continuing our trip around the Yalmal [also Yamal] Peninsula
(about 500 miles) to the southern end of the Vaygach Island where, on
the strait between this island and the island of Novaya Zemlya, we
would find a radio station built to report on ice conditions in this
part of the Arctic Ocean. During our stay in Obdorsk, we visited
neighboring native settlements, observing their life patterns and the
methods whereby they caught fish, ducks, geese, and other wild fowl
with fishing nets. We also saw the place where they worshipped their
ancient gods, in spite of the fact that they officially were Christian.
Here, in a place protected with unmanned bows and arrows, we found an
accumulation of offerings in the shape of pelts and various household
articles.
Finally,
by arrangement with the local fishing cooperative, we boarded a small
fishing boat and, in spite of a rather rough passage, reached the radio
station about two weeks later. The last part of the journey was in
dense fog, and since the boat did not have a radio, the area was
located by the simple expedients of firing guns, ringing the
ship’s bell, and listening for return shots from the station.
By these means our pilot was able to bring our boat within less than a
hundred feet of the rocky (p. 67) shore, in spite of a complete lack of
visibility.
The
station was occupied by two Russian radio operators and a family of
Eskimos. The operators were on a rotating schedule of two years each,
being replaced every other year. They eagerly awaited the icebreaker
that would bring the new operator and fresh supplies from Archangel.
The icebreaker had already been on its way for several weeks, but they
had recently lost contact with it and at this point were unsure whether
it would come at all since the ice was very bad and navigation ended
usually on the first day of September, the day we landed there. The
situation was aggravated by the fact that the captain of the boat that
brought us, was anxious to return before the winter’s freeze
and the only other way for us to return in case the icebreaker did not
arrive was with the Eskimos when they migrated south to their winter
quarters. But even they were departing soon in view of the coming of
winter.
Finally, the captain gave us the ultimatum that if
we did not go with him the next morning, he would leave us at the
station. We were completely desperate when that night we heard a siren
and a ship bell. The next morning we saw the icebreaker Salambola
from Archangel coming to our shore. An additional surprise was that on
the ship were the French radio specialists with the equipment
for the radio station at Omsk. After a very fast unloading of
the supplies for the station and then putting the French party on the
boat for Obdorsk, we boarded the Salambola and
started our journey to Archangel.
Sailing
on the Arctic Ocean is never too smooth, but my memory of this trip was
that it was the roughest and most unpleasant I have ever experienced.
To begin with, icebreakers, especially small ones like the Salambola,
have a round barrel-shaped bottom and therefore continuously roll even
in calm seas. During all our trip, the weather varied from rough to
stormy, and for the first several days I was seasick and stayed all of
the time in my berth. On the wall of the cabin was a device indicating
the degree of ship roll with metal stops at 45 degrees at
each side. This device, which was clanging on these stops practically
all of the trip, almost drove me mad. At the beginning of the trip the
captain, when he found out that I knew how to operate a machine gun,
attached me to the machine gun crew (p. 68) (since he was short of men)
with orders to report to the position in case of alarm. After we
started and I became seasick, I thought I would rather go to the bottom
with the ship than move from my berth. However, when our lookout saw or
imagined he saw a German U-boat and the alarm was sounded, I was able
to crawl to the deck and was tied with a rope to the gun carriage.
Evidently I was so scared and excited that only at the end of the alarm
did I realize that my sickness had passed. I was not seasick any more
for the rest of the trip.
When
we arrived at Archangel, we found it was occupied by French, English and American troops. All the embassies
moved here from Petrograd after the Bolsheviks took power and the
German troops started to move toward Moscow. Since my instructions from
Omsk were to go first to London, I asked the British Embassy for a visa
to England but was refused on the grounds that they did not recognize
the Siberian government. The U.S. Ambassador to Russia at that time was
Dr. D[avid] R. Francis from St. Louis.
He was very nice to me and was most interested in Siberia. I visited
him several times telling him all I knew about his country. He gave me
a visa to the United States and requested a transit permit from the
British Embassy. The British agreed to this procedure and requested a
visa from London however warning me that it would take some time to get
it. I also had some letters to the Russian Embassy in Denmark, so I
decided to go first to Copenhagen since the American visa entitled me
to go there in transit. It was a very pleasant voyage by Norwegian boat
through fiords, first to Christiana (now Oslo) and then to Copenhagen.
The
trip was very unusual because the boat traveled partly by open ocean
and partly through fiords, dashing in and out of them many times during
the trip. The water in the fiords was calm, and it was like sailing
through a lake, but the ocean was rough and our little boat pitched and
rolled like the good Salambola. This created a
problem in the dining room. If the meal time began in a fiord, the
dining room would be filled with passengers, but if during the meal the
boat went out into the open ocean, most of them, including myself,
retired to our cabin returning only when we were in another calm.
During the short night we were entertained by a fantastic display of
Aurora Borealis playing almost continuously over the sky like a
gigantic luminous curtain. (p. 69)
The
passengers on the boat were almost all Norwegian, so for me this made
conversation difficult. However, it did not preclude basic
communication which was often by gesture, grunt, or smile. Someone
would bring attention to the Borealis display, a seal, or to how the
men were fishing with lines devoid of bait or lure of any
kind—just by naked hooks. From childhood
I detested cod liver oil, but now found that fresh cod is the most
delicious fish there is, if properly prepared.
When
we came to Tromso, the captain organized an excursion on the shore to
see, behind an iron fence, seven trees, which were supposed to be the
trees farthest beyond the Arctic Circle.
In
Bergen, we were transferred to another larger boat which delivered us
to Copenhagen, a city quite striking in contrast to the others I saw
during my travels. It was immaculately clean with neat houses and
orderly people. In contrast also were the plentiful displays of food
and other commodities in restaurants and shops and the reasonably
inexpensive life. I located an old acquaintance from St. Petersburg who
was sent there with his family by the government before the revolution
and subsequently elected to remain there. He showed me the city and
told me about the inhabitants. On his suggestion I started to take
lessons in English from a lady who was a Russian refugee. I had some
arguments with the management of the hotel where I was staying because
they did not like my having "lessons" in my room and insisted they be
given downstairs in the general rooms.
I
had to wait several weeks for the British visa and witnessed the first armistice of World War I, which
later proved to be premature. The whole city went wild with dancing,
singing, and drinking. When the real armistice came, I was in London,
so I celebrated it for the second time. It took me almost a month in
London before I was able to secure passage to the United States and
straighten out the necessary formalities with my papers. Meantime, I
was deluged with invitations from the Russian colony in London to
recite my travels and tell all I knew about the situation in Russia. I
noticed however that not all my stories pleased my compatriots, most of
whom were living with their suitcases packed ready to return to Russia
as soon as the revolution collapsed. Anything (p. 70) that was said
that disagreed with their hopes angered them, and as a consequence,
some even refused to believe the authenticity of my travels. I soon
realized that the telling of my stories put me at a great disadvantage.
It is hard to convince a listener that you did not choose these
adventures, but like many others, ran into them by a combination of
circumstances and could recount them only because by luck you managed
to get out alive. So I decided to stop telling about my travels.
Finally
the day of departure came and I boarded the S.S. Mauritania for the
United States. This was my first trip on an ocean liner. I traveled
first class and had access to the numerous living, smoking, reading,
and other rooms and promenades. I enjoyed particularly the dining room
and the enormous menus with their many choices of all kinds of exotic
dishes, so in contrast to my spartan living during the war and my
travels. Although in London I had bought myself a new dark suit, I
still felt very uncomfortable among passengers who changed their dress
several times a day, particularly having to dine in the same suit, when
everybody was formally dressed.
My
consolation, however, came much later when this experience of not
having the proper attire prevented me from taking another boat, which
was torpedoed and sunk. Therefore, the absence of a dinner jacket
probably saved my life. The trip across the Atlantic was uneventful and
we arrived in view of the Statue of Liberty on New Year’s Eve
of 1919 and were held in the harbor until the next morning.
Due
to difficulties with the English language, I was able to converse
mostly with those who spoke French. At my table was a man by the name
of [Augusto B.] Leguía Leguia who was from Peru and spoke
French. He was returning home from England where he was in the
insurance business. We agreed to celebrate the New Year together and
before parting he invited me to visit his country where there was a big
demand for young engineers. I said that my plans were very indefinite,
but that I would remember his invitation.
Next morning I was surprised to see Mr.
Leguía being met by a group of very official looking
gentlemen who were dressed very formally. When I asked one of them who
Mr. Leguía was, he told me that (p. 71) they were from the
Peruvian Embassy and that Mr. Leguía had just become the
president of Peru. Later I received a letter from Mr. Leguía
on the stationery of the President of Peru with a more formal
invitation to immigrate to his country.
On
the advice of my new Peruvian friends, I first took a room at the
Waldorf Astoria Hotel, where they were staying, but soon found that it
was too expensive for me and moved to the Ansonia Hotel on 72nd Street.
With probably all new visitors to the United States, the thing that
made the biggest impression on me was the sight of so many tall
buildings, particularly the Woolworth Building which at that
time was the tallest of them all. However, I was too preoccupied with
my mission to pay much attention to the surroundings. I had several
letters of recommendation from Russia to deliver and was particularly
anxious to see my two friends who had arrived in New York before me.
One was Colonel Mouromtseff, who left Petrograd soon after the
revolution on an official mission in connection with the Government
Purchasing Commission, and another was Mr. D_____ from Berlin who moved
to New York after the beginning of the war. As soon as I was able to
reach Mr. D_____ by telephone, he suggested that I take a subway near
the hotel and come to his house.
Although
he explained to me in great detail how to find the right entrance to
the subway, where to put the nickel, etc., I still took the wrong train
and soon noticed that the stations we were passing were not the right
ones. I left the train, planning to return back to 96th Street and take
the right train. Then I discovered that the nickel I had used at the
72nd Street station was my last one, since I had left all my money in
the pockets of the trousers I had left in the hotel for cleaning. At
first I almost panicked, particularly after attempting to explain my
troubles to the subway guard who did not understand my poor English.
Several other people, who did not have the time or patience to
understand me, passed me by. One man, who guessed that I was a freshly
arrived immigrant, stopped to listen to me. By switching from one
language to another, I finally explained my predicament. He gave me a
quarter and his address where I returned the money with much gratitude
the next day. I called Mr. D_____ on the telephone and he suggested
that I stay where I was in the subway station, and he came by car to
pick me up. This was my first experience in New York. Afterwards, I did
not have much difficulty in my new surroundings. (p. 72)
I
soon located the office of the cooperative organization with whose
credentials I traveled, and I spent several months with them,
establishing communication with Omsk. In the spring [1919] I got an
order from the Siberian Government to return to Omsk since
they needed a radio specialist. They asked me to bring some spare parts
for their radio equipment. My situation was very uncertain. So far I
had traveled and lived in New York on the funds I had obtained in
Gorki, as I have already mentioned. Obviously, my funds could not last
forever so I had to plan the future. To get a job in my profession
without knowing English was practically impossible. The officials of
the cooperative accepted me on the request from their office in Omsk,
but were reluctant to pay me a salary because their resources were
limited and additional funds were hard to get due to the very unsettled
conditions in Siberia. Therefore, they were glad to get rid of me and
agreed to pay my return expenses.
When
I wired Omsk the date of my return, I received additional requests,
some official and some private, and I started to the West Coast with a
great deal of baggage.
The
return, which lasted about six weeks, took me through Seattle,
Yokohama, Vladivostok, and by Siberian railroad through Harbin to Omsk.
After a very pleasant trip by American train and by Japanese boat, I
landed in Vladivostok, which was occupied at this time by the allies.
My papers were accepted but I was warned that the passage by Siberian
railroad through Habarovsk or Harbin was uncertain. Both these cities
were occupied by practically independent atamans—Habarovsk by
General Horwat and Harbin by [Cossack] Ataman [Grigori] Semenov. The
latter acted as a war lord holding a strategic point on the Siberian
railroad. I did not have any choice and had to rely on my orders from
Omsk.
This
proved to be very optimistic as I was detained for days, repeatedly
searched, some of my baggage confiscated, and was able to proceed only
duo to telegrams from Omsk. On arrival there I found profound changes
had occurred. The Siberian government was replaced by Admiral
[Aleksandr V.] Kolchak and the civil war was going on all
over the country. The fighting was in progress on several fronts
between "whites" and communists, with variable successes on each side.
(p. 73) Although the eastern part of the country was nominally under
control of the Kolchak government, there were also several almost
independent "atamans" besides the one I mentioned, who recognized no
one and did essentially what they pleased. Whole provinces passed from
one authority to another, and it was difficult to know from whom the
population suffered the most. The chaos was spreading so I decided to
return to the United States, this time for good.
In
the meantime the Ministry of Transportation which was concerned with
delivery to Omsk of goods purchased abroad, particularly in the United
States was looking for someone to start organizing the
shipment for the next summer navigation. I received a proposal
to take part in this activity in America, which coincided with my
plans, so I agreed to accept the job conditionally for at least one but
not more than two years duration. So once more I started for New York,
this time as a government courier with letters of recommendation to
various Russian organizations in the United States. Since by now I was
a familiar person in Omsk, with a reputation of successful travel to
the United States by the Arctic Ocean, I was deluged with all kinds of
commissions from cooperatives and other organizations, letters from
private individuals searching for their relatives, and finally from the
Russian Orthodox Church to deliver to the head of the Russian Church in
the United States a vial of myrrh—a blessed oil used in
church services.
This
time I retraced the route by which I had come from New York. I reached
Vladivostok by railroad, took a small boat to Suruga, and
again by Japanese railroad arrived at Yokohama near Tokyo. When I
passed through Japan the first time, I remained in Tokyo only several
days and did not have a chance to see the country. On my return visit,
I had to wait for a visa and steamship ticket for almost a month, so I
decided to use the time to see the country. I made a traveling plan and
as I was purchasing my tickets, I noticed a Japanese gentleman near me
whom I had seen before in my hotel. I surmised that I was being
followed, but since I did not have anything to hide, I approached him
and speaking in Russian, showed him (p. 74) my tickets. I told him I
assumed he was going with me, and I would appreciate it if he would be
willing to show me the country. Furthermore, I said that I would be
willing to pay him for his service. At first he was rather confused,
but when I arrived at the railroad station for my trip, I found him
waiting for me. In him I found an excellent guide and, in a way, a
friend by whose aid and knowledge of both Russian and Japanese, I was
able to see and appreciate the Japan of that period. When I visited
Japan again almost forty years later, it was quite a different country.
During these first travels in this country, I saw the real Japan which
was probably the same as it had been hundreds of years ago. I spent the
last few days in Miyanoshita, which in my mind is
one of the most beautiful places I ever saw.
Finally
my day of departure came, and I boarded a Japanese ship. We stopped en
route for a day in Honolulu where I hired a car to see this beautiful
island, also very different then from what it is now. On my way I saw a
mound of pineapples for sale and stopped the car to buy some. Not
knowing the language, I gave the vendor a dollar bill and left to take
some pictures. When I returned I found that all the seats in the car
were occupied by my dollar’s worth of pineapples. I decided
to take some with me to bring to my friends in New York, but when I
arrived at the San Francisco customs, the inspector threw them all out
due to the plant quarantine. After a long trip by railroad,
I finally arrived in New York, this time with a firm resolution to
remain there. It had taken me eighteen months to make my journey of
almost twice around the world from Moscow to my new home. (p. 75)
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